ELLEN GOLD WHITE

ARCHERY

Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Archery

< Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book‎ | Recreation

Archery
Recreation General Conference See also Archery - Advanced	Skill Level 1
	Year of Introduction: 1945

Contents

The Archery Honor is a component of the Sportsman Master Award .

1. Identify the parts of a bow.

Handle, riser, arrow rest, upper limb, lower limb, belly, back, window, recurve, bow nock, string loop, string, serving, kisser button, nocking point, brace height or fist mele, sight, sling.

2. Identify the parts of an arrow.

Nock, index, index or "cock" feather, hen feathers, shaft, spine, crest, point-tip-pile.

3. Name and explain the safety rules for archery.

• Don't shoot straight up.
• Never run on the archery range.
• Approach the target from the side, not the front so you don't get poked by the arrows sticking out of the target.
• Be sure your equipment is in good working order.
• Be aware of who is around you at all times.
• Don't "hide" behind the target.
• Don't walk in front of another archer.
• Don't talk on the shooting line.
• While loading your bow be sure that the arrows are always pointing toward the target.

4. Correctly and safely string a bow.

There are three basic ways of stringing and unstringing a bow. Two of them are safe, and one is not. The unsafe method is also presented because it is very commonly practiced. It is presented here so that you can recognize when another person is using it, and by so doing, placing himself at risk. If you see someone using this method, please educate them.

1. Bow Stringer

Another Bow Stringer

A bowstringer is a device that makes it safe and easy to string a bow. The archer steps on the bow stringer and then pulls the bow upward causing it to flex. This brings the tips of the bow closer together, and the string can then be looped over the string notch.

2. Step through

In this method; the archer begins by placing one end of the string into the string notch on the lower limb of the bow. The archer then "steps into" the bow by placing the right leg between the bow and the string, locking the bottom limb of the bow around the right calf and foot. The bow's belly should be to the archer's left, and the bottom tip should rest against the left side of the archer's right foot. The outside of the right knee will then be in a position to brace the bow near its handle. As the right hand is used to flex the bow and the left hand is used to loop the string around the upper string notch. This method can damage your bow if done incorrectly. This is the least favored way of the 3 stringing options.

Push Pull

The "Push Pull" method

Though the push pull method of stringing is safe for your bow and has been popularized for that reason, it is very dangerous to the archer since, as you can see in the photo, the top limb is directly aligned with your head, and any slip while using this method can result in permanent eye damage and even death, especially from recurve bows since the back of a recurved limb creates a point which acts as a force multiplier. Children should never be taught this method of stringing a bow and even experienced professional bow technicians have been injured through its use^[1]. We present the method here so that if you see someone using it, you can educate them. Do not use this method to string a bow.

The bow is placed as shown in the picture. The bottom "bow nock" will be up against the instep of the shoe. By pushing with the palm of the top hand and pulling with the bottom hand the bow is bent. The fingers of the top hand pluck the string on or off.

Always Check the String

Checking the String

When you have strung the bow, turn it away from you 180 degrees to check the string. That way if the string slips off, the bow will kick out away from you. Whichever method for stringing a bow is selected, it is important to check both ends of the bow to ensure that is has been strung properly. Do this whether you have strung it yourself or if someone else has strung it for you. The string on an improperly strung bow can come off when the bow is drawn, potentially causing injury.

5. Describe and show how to use the following:

a. Arm guard

Armguard

Hitting your arm is one of the unpleasantries of archery. You can protect yourself with an armguard while learning how not to hit your arm. A leather or plastic armguard with elastic bands should be placed on the inside of your forearm just below your elbow. If you have a slight hyperextension to your elbow you can purchase a long armguard which will cover the inside of your entire bow arm.

b. Finger tab or glove

Finger tab

The purpose of a finger tab or glove is to protect the archer's finger from the string.
There are several types of finger tabs available. The "Marshall" style has one hole and the "Western" style has two holes. Either one works fine. They should be trimmed to fit the archer.
The "archers glove" covers the finger tips and secures around the archer's wrist.

c. Quiver

A quiver by definition is "anything that holds arrows". There are several types of quivers including:

• The side quiver which hangs from a belt
• The back quiver which hangs from the shoulder.
• The side quiver which hooks onto a pocket.
• The pocket quiver.
• The ground quiver which sits on the ground.

d. Bow sling

The purpose of a bow sling is to keep you from dropping your bow. There are two types of bow slings: the wrist sling and the finger sling.
A wrist sling is a strap that is connected to your bow for you to put your hand through while gripping your bow.
A finger sling is a 2 inch string with a loop at each end. After gripping your bow the loops go over the thumb and your index finger.

e. String kisser

The string "kisser" is a point on the string that touches your lip or corner of your mouth.
If you are using a "center draw" (see, Anchor) the string is in the middle or your chin and the middle of your nose. A "kisser" would be a small disc on the string that would touch your lip. This assures a vertical alignment of your bow.
Creative Idea: Use a foldable to record / organize this information. Go here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6K0RnlNM7E to learn how.

6. Demonstrate the following shooting techniques:

a. The stance

Proper archery stance

The stance is the position the feet and body assume when addressing the target.
Setting your feet is the first step in setting up a good shot. A good foundation is important in anything, especially in archery.
First, lay an arrow pointing toward your target and perpendicular to the shooting line. Second, place your feet straddling the shooting line with your toes slightly touching the arrow.
Your feet should be placed approximately the same distance apart as your shoulders as a starting point. Once you find a comfortable stance it is important to remember where to put your feet each time you return to the shooting line.

b. Nocking the arrow

To place an arrow on the bowstring. The attachment to the rear of an arrow which is placed on the bowstring and holds the arrow on the string.
There are two ways to put and arrow on the string. One is right and one is wrong. The index feather or "cock" feather should point away from the bow. This feather is usually a different color than the other two which are also known as "hen" feathers. Doing this allows the hen feathers to gracefully clear the bow. If the "index" feather is pointed toward the bow it will kick out away from the bow as it tries to clear the bow during the shot.
The picture shows the most common way of placing the fingers on the string. The thumb and small finger should not be involved in the shot in any way or fashion. they should be relaxed and folded down as if you were saying "I'm THREE years old".
After nocking the arrow, place three fingers on the string. Two under the arrow and 1 over the arrow then slide them together, lightly touching the arrow. The string should be at the first joint near the end of your fingers. This is a starting point. Competitive archers try to get the string at the very end of their fingers for a quicker release but this takes years of training.

c. The draw

This is the act of pulling the string back. The archer should start with the bow arm pointed directly at the target before pulling the string. Some young archers like to pull the string while raising their bows but this is a waste of energy and creates fatigue while shooting. Be very deliberate with little wasted motion.

d. The anchor

The Side Draw

The Center Draw

The "anchor" is a combination of points to which the bowstring and/or the index finger of the drawing hand are drawn to on the face and neck. There are multiple ways of "Anchoring" the string after you have drawn the bow. I will give you the two most common ones.

The Side Draw: Hunter or Field Style - Pull the string back so the index finger of your string hand touches the corner of your mouth. This places the arrow directly beneath the eye that you are aiming with. This is recommended for all beginners. As archers continue to progress and put an aiming device on their bow they can progress to the next one.

The Center Draw: Target or Olympic Style - Pull the string hand under your jaw so the string is in the middle and in front of the chin. The string should also touch the nose. The string hand is in line with and directly under the jaw bone. The above picture is my oldest son Mark, Jr who is currently training for the Olympics.

Remember that anchoring in the same place and the same way every time is critical no matter how you choose to anchor.

e. The hold and aim

Hold and Aim

To superimpose a sight pin on the center of a target or, when not using a sight, the placement of the tip of the arrow on a particular point for a given distance.
Hold means to get everything locked into place and be sure that you are ready to release the arrow. There should be a straight line from the back elbow right through the arrow to the back of the bow (see photo).

Aim is the process of deciding when to let go of the string. An archer without a sight uses an "instinctive" method or guessing how high or low to aim.

A sight is a reference point for aiming but is only useful if the archers shoots the same way every time.

An archer without a sight can use a sighting method called "point of aim". Contact me at West's Archery and I can teach you how to use this.

f. The release

The Release

The release is the act of allowing the string to leave the fingers.
The release is the most important part of the shot. It is when everything comes together in a fraction of a second. The best way to perform the release is to just relax the fingers. As the arrow goes toward the target, the string hand should go in exactly the opposite direction. My Youngest son, Aaron, is demonstrating this in the photo.

g. The follow-through

Follow-through

"Follow through" refers to the movement of the drawing hand and arm after the release.

Once the archer has released the arrow, nothing should move. The archer must give the arrow time to clear the bow. To insure this, instruct your archers to wait until the arrow hits the target before moving at all. In the picture you can see that my release hand goes in the exact opposite direction as the arrow. Making sure that your shoulders don't collapse is very important. Also, notice that I am still aiming, long after the arrow is gone.

7. Why is it necessary to have an arrow "nocking point" properly positioned on the bow string?

If the nocking point is too high, the arrow will be pointed "down" and come out of the bow low.
If the nocking point is too low, the arrow will be pointed "up" and come out of the bow high.
Nock rings can be placed on the bow to allow for consistency. A bow square and nock pliers can be used to set the nocking point properly.

8. Using a standard (Olympic bow) score one of the following:
a. Indoors: 30 arrows (5 rounds) at 18 meters score 50 points on a 60 cm. target.
b. Outdoors: 30 arrows (5 rounds) at 25 meters score 170 points on a 122 cm. target.

Note: The editors of this answer book feel that there is an error in the official version of this requirement. More Information

---

A standard "Olympic Bow" is a recurve (not compound) bow with no more than 3 stabilizer extensions, a sight, and a clicker. An archer must use fingers and not a mechanical release and may not have a string peep sight or magnified aiming device.
We have recommended that the NAD waive the scoring requirements for the "Beginning" archery honor. Everyone should be able to get this honor regardless of athletic skills. We have been given approval to grant the honors this way. That is what allowed us to teach over 1,000 pathfinders this honor at the Faith on Fire Pathfinder Camporee in Oshkosh, Wisconsin in 2004.

9. Know and practice the archery safety rules.

• Don't shoot straight up.
• Never run on the archery range.
• Approach the target from the side, not the front so you don't get poked by the arrows sticking out of the target.
• Be sure your equipment is in good working order.
• Be aware of who is around you at all times.
• Don't "hide" behind the target.
• Don't walk in front of another archer.
• Don't talk on the shooting line.
• While loading your bow be sure that the arrows are always pointing toward the target.

About the Author

Mark West

The West Family

The material for this chapter was provided by Mark West, owner and operator of West's Archery which was established in 1937 by his grandfather. Mark's father, Bill was a National Champion and 2-time World Champion. Mark has been an archer since 1969 and an instructor since 1973. He competed in the Olympics in 1972 and was the U.S. National Champion and 3-time California State Champion. He has travelled the world teaching archery skills and performing in programs with his "Gospel Archery" sharpshooting team. In 2004 at the Faith on Fire Camporee in Oshkosh, Wisconsin, Mark not only set a Guinness World Record by shooting a single arrow through eleven "handheld" balloons, but he and the West family also taught the Archery honor to over 1000 Pathfinders.

Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Abseiling

< Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book‎ | Recreation

Abseiling
Recreation South Pacific Division See also Abseiling - Advanced	Skill Level Unknown
	Year of Introduction: Unknown

Contents

Safety

1. a. List and explain the safety rules

1. b. Explain the “dangers of falling” chart.

2. Explain the uses of the following knots:

a. Tape

Ring Bend (Water Knot, Tape Knot)

Use: The water knot (or tape knot) is a knot frequently used in climbing for joining two ends of webbing together, for instance when making a sling. The ends should be left at least three inches long and the knot should be "set" by tightening it with full body weight. The ends can be taped or lightly sewn to the standing parts to help prevent them from creeping back into the knot. Inspect the knot before each use. How to tie: To tie, first form an overhand knot in one end and then follow it with the other end, feeding in the opposite direction.

b. Alpine butterfly

Alpine butterfly

Use: The Butterfly Loop has a high breaking strength and is regarded by mountaineers as one of the strongest knots to attach climbers to the middle of a rope, such that they have room to move around even when the main rope goes tight, and they can be supported in either direction from the main rope. The loop is typically attached to a climbing harness by carabiner. It can also be used to isolate a worn section of rope, where the knot is tied such that the worn section is used for the center of the loop.

c. Figure of eight loop

Figure Eight

Use: This knot is ideal for keeping the end of a rope from running out of tackle or pulley. How to tie: Make underhand loop, bringing end around and over the standing part. Pass end under, then up through the loop. Draw up tight.

d. Double fishermans

Double Fisherman's Knot

Use: Joining thin, stiff or slippery lines, backing up critical knots such as the Figure-of-eight loop or Figure-of-eight follow through. Use the double fisherman's knot to tie together two ropes of unequal sizes. This knot and the triple fisherman's knot are the variations used most often in rock climbing, but other uses include search and rescue. The primary use of this knot in rock climbing is to form high strength loops of cord for connecting pieces of the rock climber's protection system. It is favoured for being compact, and for arranging the line of force in a straight line through the knot. Another common use for this knot is to back up a critical knot, such as a harness tie-in knot or single-line rappel rigs. In this use, the running end is tied around the standing end of the rope, so that it cannot slip back through the knot. How to tie: See illustration. Draw up tight.

e. Prussik

Prusik knot

Use: A Prusik (aka Prussik or Prussic) is a friction hitch used in climbing, canyoneering, caving, rope rescue and by arborists to grab a rope (sometimes referred to as a rope-grab). The term Prusik is used both for the knot, for the loops of cord, and for the action (to prusik). A Prusik rope is a circular loop with a circumference of 20 to 100 cm depending on its intended use. Two Prusik ropes are tied to another rope which is anchored above. When the Prusik knot is under tension, it grabs the rope to which it is tied. When not under tension, it is easily moved. The climber places one foot into each loop, and shifts all of his or her weight to one of them, releasing the tension on the other. The rope without tension is then slid upwards on the vertical rope. The climber the shifts his or her weight to the other loop and slides the first one up. This is repeated until the rope has been ascended. Prusiks will work around two ropes, even two ropes of different diameters. Prusiks provide a high-strength and relatively fail-safe (i.e., they will slip before damaging the rope or breaking) attachment, and are used in some rope-rescue techniques. Prusiks are good to use in hauling systems where multiple rope-grabs may be needed, and where mechanical rope-grabs are not available. Although the Prusik Climb technique may be called old-school by some, the US Army still includes it in its annual Best Ranger competition. Rangers in the competition routinely make it up a 90 foot rope in under a minute. How to tie: The Prusik is tied by wrapping the prusik loop around the rope a number of times (depending on the materials, but usually 3-5 times), and then back through itself, forming a barrel around the rope, with a tail hanging out the middle. When the tail is weighted the turns tighten around the main rope and grab. When weight is removed the loop can be slid along the rope by placing a hand directly on the barrel and pushing. The trick is, if it grabs well, then it is hard to slide along the rope. Breaking the Prusik free from the rope after it has been weighted can be difficult, and is easiest done by pushing the bow, being the loop of cord which runs from the top wrap, over the knot to the bottom wrap, along the tail a little. This loosens the grip of the hitch and makes movement easier. Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Step 4 Locked while holding tension. Slides readily without tension.

f. Bowline

Bowline

Use: This knot doesn't jam or slip when tied properly. It can be tied around a person's waist and used to lift him, because the loop will not tighten under load. In sailing, the bowline is used to tie a halyard to a sail head. How to tie: Make the overhand loop with the end held toward you, then pass end through loop. Now pass end up behind the standing part, then down through the loop again. Draw up tight.

Setup

3. Draw the diagrams for the setting up of the following abseil descents:

a. Single rope technique

b. Canyoning setup

4. Know the ways to identify safe anchors in various circumstances, e.g. trees, boulders, bollards. Belaying

5. Explain the various verbal calls.

6. Explain the principle of belaying and the three methods used, and give the advantages and disadvantages of each method:

a. Body belay

b. Mechanical belay

c. Base belay

Care of Equipment

7. List the rules for care of ropes.

Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Knot/Care Of Rope

8. Explain the difference between dynamic and static rope.

Dynamic rope is usually used for climbing activities where stretch to absorb the shock from a leader fall while on belay or climbing while roped with a team is expected. The dynamic function decreases deceleration injury and preserves the rope. After hard falls ropes may need to be retired from leader use.
Static ropes are built with little or no stretch. They are best suited for caving, Abseiling and static safety tied ropes.

9. Know the right type of equipment needed for abseiling.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
A helmet will protect your head from falling rocks or other impacts. Here is what you should look for.  Light weight  Well ventilated  Fits comfortably on your head and you can forget you’re even wearing soon after you put it on. Always wear a helmet.
A harness. A wide padded waist belt harness with loops for carrying gear is good. Tape harnesses are ample but not very comfortable. The harness must be fitted correctly...it should be fitted firmly above the hips around the waist first, then leg loops should be adjusted firmly. There should be no pressure spots, wedging or chaffing from quality harness.
Gloves. Novices such as school groups who do abseiling only while on an instructors safety belay will usually use gloves. Their hands are soft and easily blistered and as a beginner they tend to get rope burn by letting the rope loose then grasping it in fear or excitement. Choose gloves that fit your hand size, and not the one size fits all type garden variety. The perfect glove is a mitten type with padded palms and exposed fingers.
Footwear. Climbing shoes are not necessary but sturdy footwear is recommended.
Ropes...
Belay devices...

10. Know the best way to store your ropes, e.g. coiling and chaining.

Be aware that moisture, extreme temperatures Ultraviolet light, chemicals, abrasion and dirt can all damage ropes. Keeping them clean, dry and protected is mission critical to a full lifespan of the rope.

Descenders

11 a. Know which descending device to use in different abseils.

11 b. Give reasons why you chose that device, e.g. on/off time, security, heat, versatility, etc.

First Aid

12. Know about how to treat a patient for the following injuries:

a. Sprains

Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/First aid/Sprains

b. Concussion

Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/First aid/Concussion

c. Hypothermia

Hypothermia is caused by continued exposure to low or rapidly falling temperatures, cold moisture, snow, or ice. Those exposed to low temperatures for extended periods may suffer ill effects, even if they are well protected by clothing, because cold affects the body systems slowly, almost without notice. As the body cools, there are several stages of progressive discomfort and disability. The first symptom is shivering, which is an attempt to generate heat by repeated contractions of surface muscles. This is followed by a feeling of listlessness, indifference, and drowsiness. Unconsciousness can follow quickly. Shock becomes evident as the victim’s eyes assume a glassy stare, respiration becomes slow and shallow, and the pulse is weak or absent. As the body temperature drops even lower, peripheral circulation decreases and the extremities become susceptible to freezing. Finally, death results as the core temperature of the body approaches 80°F (27°C). The steps for treatment of hypothermia are as follows:

1. Carefully observe respiratory effort and heart beat; CPR may be required while the warming process is underway.
2. Rewarm the victim as soon as possible. It may be necessary to treat other injuries before the victim can be moved to a warmer place. Severe bleeding must be controlled and fractures splinted over clothing before the victim is moved.
3. Replace wet or frozen clothing and remove anything that constricts the victim’s arms, legs, or fingers, interfering with circulation.
4. If the victim is inside a warm place and is conscious, the most effective method of warming is immersion in a tub of warm (100° to 105°F or 38° to 41°C) water. The water should be warm to the elbow - never hot. Observe closely for signs of respiratory failure and cardiac arrest (rewarming shock). Rewarming shock can be minimized by warming the body trunk before the limbs to prevent vasodilation in the extremities with subsequent shock due to blood volume shifts.
5. If a tub is not available, apply external heat to both sides of the victim. Natural body heat (skin to skin) from two rescuers is the best method. This is called “buddy warming.” If this is not practical, use hot water bottles or an electric rewarming blanket. Do not place the blanket or bottles next to bare skin, however, and be careful to monitor the temperature of the artificial heat source, since the victim is very susceptible to burn injury. Because the victim is unable to generate adequate body heat, placement under a blanket or in a sleeping bag is not sufficient treatment.
6. If the victim is conscious, give warm liquids to drink. Never give alcoholic beverages or allow the victim to smoke.
7. Dry the victim thoroughly if water is used for rewarming.
8. As soon as possible, transfer the victim to a definitive care facility. Be alert for the signs of respiratory and cardiac arrest during transfer, and keep the victim warm.

d. Broken bone

Splints An essential part of the first-aid treatment is immobilizing the injured part with splints so that the sharp ends of broken bones won’t move around and cause further damage to nerves, blood vessels, or vital organs. Splints are also used to immobilize severely injured joints or muscles and to prevent the enlargement of extensive wounds.
Before you can use a splint, you need to have a general understanding of the use of splints. In an emergency, almost any firm object or material can be used as a splint. Such things as umbrellas, canes, tent pegs, sticks, oars, paddles, spars, wire, leather, boards, pillows, heavy clothing, corrugated cardboard, and folded newspapers can be used as splints. A fractured leg may sometimes be splinted by fastening it securely to the uninjured leg. Splints, whether ready-made or improvised, must meet the following requirements:

• Be light in weight, but still be strong and fairly rigid.
• Be long enough to reach the joints above and below the fracture.
• Be wide enough so the bandages used to hold them in place won’t pinch the injured part.
• Be well padded on the sides that touch the body. If they’re not properly padded, they won’t fit well and won’t adequately immobilize the injured part.
• To improvise the padding for a splint, use articles of clothing, bandages, cotton, blankets, or any other soft material.
• If the victim is wearing heavy clothes, apply the splint on the outside, allowing the clothing to serve as at least part of the required padding.

Although splints should be applied snugly, never apply them tight enough to interfere with the circulation of the blood. When applying splints to an arm or a leg, try to leave the fingers or toes exposed. If the tips of the fingers or toes become blue or cold, you will know that the splints or bandages are too tight. You should examine a splinted part approximately every half-hour, and loosen the fastenings if circulation appears to be cut off. Remember that any injured part is likely to swell, and splints or bandages that are all right when applied may be too tight later.
To secure the limb to the splint, belts, neckerchiefs, rope, or any suitable material may be used. If possible, tie the limb at two places above and two places below the break. Leave the treatment of other types of fractures, such as jaw, ribs, and spine, to medical personnel. Never try to move a person who might have a fractured spine or neck. Moving such a person could cause permanent paralysis. Don’t attempt to reset bones.
Forearm

There are two long bones in the forearm, the radius and the ulna. When both are broken, the arm usually appears to be deformed. When only one is broken, the other acts as a splint and the arm retains a more or less natural appearance. Any fracture of the forearm is likely to result in pain, tenderness, inability to use the forearm, and a kind of wobbly motion at the point of injury. If the fracture is open, a bone will show through. If the fracture is open, stop the bleeding and treat the wound. Apply a sterile dressing over the wound. Carefully straighten the forearm. (Remember that rough handling of a closed fracture may turn it into an open fracture.) Apply two well-padded splints to the forearm, one on the top and one on the bottom. Be sure that the splints are long enough to extend from the elbow to the wrist. Use bandages to hold the splints in place. Put the forearm across the chest. The palm of the hand should be turned in, with the thumb pointing upward. Support the forearm in this position by means of a wide sling and a cravat bandage (see illustration). The hand should be raised about 4 inches above the level of the elbow. Treat the victim for shock and evacuate as soon as possible.
Upper Arm

The signs of fracture of the upper arm include pain, tenderness, swelling, and a wobbly motion at the point of fracture. If the fracture is near the elbow, the arm is likely to be straight with no bend at the elbow. If the fracture is open, stop the bleeding and treat the wound before attempting to treat the fracture.

NOTE

Treatment of the fracture depends partly upon the location of the break.

If the fracture is in the upper part of the arm near the shoulder, place a pad or folded towel in the armpit, bandage the arm securely to the body, and support the forearm in a narrow sling.
If the fracture is in the middle of the upper arm, you can use one well-padded splint on the outside of the arm. The splint should extend from the shoulder to the elbow. Fasten the splinted arm firmly to the body and support the forearm in a narrow sling, as illustrated.
Another way of treating a fracture in the middle of the upper arm is to fasten two wide splints (or four narrow ones) about the arm and then support the forearm in a narrow sling. If you use a splint between the arm and the body, be very careful that it does not extend too far up into the armpit; a splint in this position can cause a dangerous compression of the blood vessels and nerves and may be extremely painful to the victim. If the fracture is at or near the elbow, the arm may be either bent or straight. No matter in what position you find the arm, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO STRAIGHTEN IT OR MOVE IT IN ANY WAY. Splint the arm as carefully as possible in the position in which you find it. This will prevent further nerve and blood vessel damage. The only exception to this is if there is no pulse on the other side of the fracture (relative to the heart), in which case gentle traction is applied and then the arm is splinted. Treat the victim for shock and get him under the care of a medical professional as soon as possible.
Kneecap

Carefully straighten the injured limb. Immobilize the fracture by placing a padded board under the injured limb. The board should be at least 4 inches wide and should reach from the but- tock to the heel. Place extra padding under the knee and just above the heel, as shown in the illustration. Use strips of bandage to fasten the leg to the board in four places: (1) just below the knee; (2) just above the knee; (3) at the ankle; and (4) at the thigh. DO NOT COVER THE KNEE ITSELF. Swelling is likely to occur very rapidly, and any bandage or tie fastened over the knee would quickly become too tight. Treat the victim for shock and evacuate as soon as possible.
Ankle

The figure-eight bandage is used for dressings of the ankle, as well as for supporting a sprain. While keeping the foot at a right angle, start a 3-inch bandage around the instep for several turns to anchor it. Carry the bandage upward over the instep and around behind the ankle, forward, and again across the instep and down under the arch, thus completing one figure-eight. Continue the figure-eight turns, overlapping one-third to one-half the width of the bandage and with an occasional turn around the ankle, until the compress is secured or until adequate support is obtained.

e. Shock

Shock is a medical condition where the delivery of oxygen and nutrients is insufficient to meet the body's needs. The main carrier of oxygen and nutrients in the body is the blood, so anytime there is a loss of blood, there is a risk of shock. Shock is a life-threatening emergency.

Recovery position

First aid treatment of shock includes:

• Immediate reassurance and comforting the victim if conscious.
• If alone, go for help. If not, send someone to go for help and someone stay with the victim.
• Ensure that the airway is clear and check for breathing. Place the victim in the recovery position if possible.
• Attempt to stop any obvious bleeding.
• Cover the victim with a blanket or jacket, but not too thick or it may cause a dangerous drop in blood pressure.
• Do not give a drink. Moisten lips if requested.
• Prepare for cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR).
• Give as much information as possible when the ambulance arrives.

Cliff Rescue

13. Explain how to perform the following rescues:

a. The pulley system

b. The change-over method

SECTION TWO-PRACTICAL

1. Pass the abseiling exam with a pass mark of 60%. The exam is available from the conference youth ministries office, or through the instructor.

Verbal Testing

2. Answer the questions on the following topics:

a. Uses of the six abseiling knots

b. What are, and give the meaning of the standard climbing calls

c. Uses of various descenders

d. Give seven rules for are of rope

e. Give seven rules for safety

f. Know about first aid and how to treat patients

g. Give five ways to detect faults of ropes

Practical Testing

3. Perform the following tasks:

a. Tie the six knots

b. Set up the single rope setup and canyoning setup

c. Witness a cliff rescue demonstrated by the instructor

d. Coil and chain a rope

e. Set up the belay methods

Abseiling

4. From a minimum height of 10 meters, complete two abseils on each of the following devices, and know how to attach them to the rope:

a. Whale tail

b. Robot

c. Harpoon (easy access)

d. Figure of eight

e. Piton-brake bar

f. Rappel-rack

g. Harpoon (conventional)

h. Cross karabiner

5. Explain how to do the classic abseil, and over the shoulder abseil, for emergency use.

6. Be able to prussik a ten-meter cliff.

KNOT TIEING

It's a good idea to begin this honor with the definitions so your Pathfinders have a working vocabulary of the various terms involved. Telling them to "make a bight" or "take the standing part" makes little sense until these terms are understood.

A bight

a. Bight

The term bight refers to any curved section, slack part, or loop between the two ends of a rope,

b. Running end

Also called the working end, it is the free end of the rope. This is the end of the rope in which a knot is being tied.

c. Standing part

The part of the rope between the Running end and the Standing end (the end that doesn't move, think of it as if someone is holding it)

d. Underhand loop

A loop formed by passing the running end of a line under the standing part.

e. Overhand loop

A loop formed by passing the running end of a line over the standing part.

f. Turn

A: Turn
B: Round turn
C: Two round turns

A turn is a component of a knot. Turns can be made around objects, through rings, or around the standing part of the rope itself. Turns come in various forms, distinguished by the number of passes that the rope makes. A turn or single turn requires one pass. The line makes a U-shape through or around the object, or half a revolution. A round turn requires two passes and makes one and a half revolutions. Two round turns adds another pass and revolution.

g. Bend

A bend is used to tie two ropes together, as in the Sheetbend. Technically, even the Reef knot is a bend

h. Hitch

A hitch is used to tie a rope to a spar, ring or post, such as the Clove hitch. Hitches can also be used to tie one rope ONTO another rope, as in the Rolling hitch.

i. Splice

A knot formed by interweaving strands of rope rather than whole lines. More time consuming but usually stronger than simple knots.

j. Whipping

A binding knot used to prevent another line from fray.

2. Know how to care for rope.

• a. Keep the rope clean.
• b. Always coil a rope before storing it.
• c. Make sure wet rope is dry before coiling it.
• d. Return rope to its proper place after using it.

3. Describe the difference between laid rope and braided rope and list three uses of each.

In laid rope, three bundles of fiber or twine are twisted in the same direction, placed close to each other, and allowed to twist together. In braided rope, the fibers are woven together, often around some core material.

Uses of Laid Rope

1. Repels water
2. Able to withstand immense strain.
3. Can be spliced with standard techniques.

Uses of Braided Rope

1. Works well with pulleys and rigging.
2. Spinning (lariats and lassos).
3. Decorative knots.

4. Identify the following types of rope:

a. Manila

Manila is a type of fiber obtained from the leaves of the abacá (Musa textilis), a relative of the banana. It is mostly used to make ropes and it is one of the most durable of the natural fibers, besides true hemp. Manila is a coarse, brown fiber, about the same color and feel as a coconut shell.

b. Sisal

Sisal is valued for cordage use because of its strength, durability, ability to stretch, affinity for certain dyestuffs, and resistance to deterioration in saltwater. Sisal ropes and twines are widely employed for marine, agricultural (bailing twine), and general industrial use. Sisal fibers are smooth, straight and yellow and can be long or short.

c. Nylon

Nylon rope is often white, but any color is possible. It has a smooth, silky feeling to it, and it coils easily. Nylon rope does not float in water. It is a synthetic-fiber rope.

d. Polypropylene

Polypropylene rope is most often yellow, though any color is possible. It is often used in marine applications because it floats in water. The rope is sometimes difficult to tie as it is somewhat stiff and brittle. It is a synthetic-fiber rope.

The easiest way to make an initial identification of a rope is to visit a hardware store where rope is sold. The packaging will tell you what the rope is made of. If you want to be sure, buy some of each type (with the labeling) or examine it closely in the store.

5. What are some advantages and disadvantages of synthetic rope?

Advantages

• Improved abrasion-resistance
• Better UV-resistance
• Lighter
• Length does not vary as much when wet
• Rot-resistant

Disadvantages

• Some synthetics do not hold knots well
• More slippery
• Melts when heated
• Stretches more than natural ropes.

6. Do the following to rope:

a. Splice

A splice is used to join the ends of two ropes and results in the spliced part being about twice as thick as the non spliced part. The short splice retains more of the rope strength than any knots that join rope ends. It is tied using the same techniques as the eye splice (see below).

• Short splice animated

b. Eye splice

Eye splice

Use: The eye splice is the best method of creating a permanent loop in the end of multi stranded rope by means of rope splicing. The ends of the rope are tucked (plaited) back into the standing end to form the loop. Originally this splice was described with each end being tucked only about three times. When the splice was made in tarred hemp or cotton this was reasonably safe. With modern synthetic ropes, five complete tucks is a minimum and additional tucks are recommended for critical loads. How to tie: The ends of the rope are first wrapped in tape or heated with a flame to prevent each end from fraying completely. The rope is unlayed for a distance equal to three times the diameter for each "tuck", e.g., for five tucks in half inch rope, undo about 7.5 inches. Wrap the rope at that point to prevent it unwinding further. Form the loop and plait the three ends back against the twist of the rope. Practice is required to keep each end retaining its twist and lie neatly. Eye Splice Animated

c. Back splice

A back splice (also called an end splice) is a splice where the strands of the end of the rope are spliced directly back into the end without forming a loop. It is used to finish off the end of the rope to keep it from fraying. The end of the rope with the splice is about twice the thickness of the rest of the rope. Begin by unraveling the strands, and tie a crown knot. Then begin splicing the rope onto itself as with the short splice.

d. Finish the end of a rope with a double crown, whipping, or a Matthew Walker's knot.

Double crown knot

Use: A double crown knot is a decorative knot tied on the end of a laid rope to prevent it from unraveling. How to tie: Tie a crown knot in the end of the rope. Pull the three strands upwards, away from the standing part, and tie another crown knot.

Common whipping

Use: The common whipping is the simplest type of whipping knot, a series of knots intended to stop a rope from unraveling. As it can slip off of the rope easily, the common whipping should not be used for rope ends that will be handled. This whipping knot is also called 'wolf' whipping in some parts of the world. The benefit of a common whipping is that no tools are necessary and the rope does not need to be unlayed. The problem is that it will slide off the end of the rope with little provocation. Other whippings avoid this by interleaving the whipping with the strands of the rope and creating friction with the strands to avoid slipping. Normally a natural fiber rope is whipped with twine. The size of the rope dictates the size of the twine. Any twine can be used, but tarred two strand hemp (marline) is preferred. Artificial-fiber ropes should have their ends fused by heat rather than whipped to prevent unraveling. How to tie: The rope should be whipped a short distance (One and a half times the diameter) from its end. Lay the head of the twine along the rope, make a bight back along the rope Begin wrapping the twine around the rope and bight of twine securely. Wrap until the whipping is one and a half times wider than the rope is thick. Slip the working end of the twine through the bight. Cut the twine flush with the edges of the whipping and the rope end not less than half its width from the whipping to give the rope end a finished look

Matthew Walker knot

Use: A Matthew Walker knot is a decorative knot that is used to keep the end of a rope from fraying. It is tied by unraveling the strands of a twisted rope, knotting the strands together, then laying up the strands together again. It may also be tied using several separate cords, in which case it keeps the cords together in a bundle. How to tie: A Matthew Walker knot is tied in a circular bundle of any number of strands. To tie the knot, the tier takes each strand and forms a loop around the rest of the bundle, then passes the end through the newly-formed loop to form an overhand knot. He then moves to the next strand over, moving around the bundle in the direction he passes the loops. Tying the first strand around the bundle is straightforward, but each subsequent end must be passed through the previously-formed loops in order to contain all of the other strands in its loop. When tightening, it may help to roll the knot along the bundle, especially when using only two strands. The final effect is a spiral knot vaguely resembling a section of a barber's pole.

7. Make a six-foot piece of three-strand twisted rope from native materials or twine.

Rope-making apparatus

Making rope requires some simple apparatus which you can make yourself easily enough. The first apparatus (we'll call it the twister) is used for twisting three strands of twine (or smaller rope). When making the twister, clamp the two boards that form the handles together tightly and drill three holes through both at the same time. This will ensure that they line up. The hook/crank portion of the twister can be made from coat hanger wire. First make the two 90° bends in the center, then pass them through the holes in the handles. Finally, form the hooks on one end and the other 90° bend on the other. (This final bend prevents the crank from slipping out of the holes in the handle).
As the strands are twisted, they will tend to grab one another and twist together. To make rope, this tendency has to be controlled. This is done with a second apparatus (we'll call it the separator). It consists of a board with three holes drilled in it, forming the points of an equilateral triangle. These points should be at least six inches away from one another, and should be large enough to pass the strands of twine through.
To make rope, cut three pieces of twine about 33% longer than the desired rope. Pass each strand through a hole in the separator, then tie a non-slip loop in the end of each (a figure-eight on a bight works well for this). We will call this end of the strands the free end. Slip these loops over a hook of some sort, and pull the strands straight. Bunch the ends opposite the loops together, and tie them off, again in a loop (and again, a figure-eight on a bight works well for this). We will call this end the bound end. Make sure that the three strands are the same length from one loop to the other. Hand the bound end to a helper, then attach the loops on the free end to the hooks on the twister. Pull the twister away from the bound end (still affixed firmly to another hook) until the strands are straight and tight. Then slide the separator towards the common end. Start cranking the twister so that the hooks rotate. As you crank, your helper will allow the three strands on his side of the separator to twist together. As they do this, the helper will slide the separator towards you, going only as fast as the strands bind to one another. Be careful to keep the strands tight as you do this so that they do not bind to one another on your end of the separator. Continue twisting until the separator reaches the twister. Then tie a knot in the free end of the rope, unhook it from the twister, and slide the separator off. Tie a stopper knot, or bind the end with tape. Then cut off the few inches of untwisted strand that remain (or make a back splice). Finish the opposite end in the same manner. Voila! You now have a rope!

8. From memory tie at least 20 of the following knots and know their common uses and limitations. Demonstrate how they are used.

Anchor bend

Anchor bend

Use: The Anchor Bend is a knot used for attaching a rope to a ring or similar termination. The round turn and tight application help keep the rope from chafing. How to tie: Make two turns around a hitch. Pass the running end around the standing end and beneath the two turns. Finish with a half hitch on the standing end.

Bowline

Bowline

Use: This knot doesn't jam or slip when tied properly. It can be tied around a person's waist and used to lift him, because the loop will not tighten under load. In sailing, the bowline is used to tie a halyard to a sail head. How to tie: Make the overhand loop with the end held toward you, then pass end through loop. Now pass end up behind the standing part, then down through the loop again. Draw up tight.

Bowline on a bight

Bowline on a bight

Use: This makes a secure loop in the middle of a rope which does not slip. How to tie: A bight is the middle part of the rope (not the ends) In the middle of a rope, form a small loop. Thread the bight through the loop. Spread out the bight a little. Pass this down and around the whole knot. Continue until it come back to the neck where it started. Tighten the bight to complete the knot. Tighten carefully so that you don't get a kind of slip knot.

Butterfly loop knot or Alpine butterfly knot

Alpine butterfly

Use: The Butterfly Loop has a high breaking strength and is regarded by mountaineers as one of the strongest knots to attach climbers to the middle of a rope, such that they have room to move around even when the main rope goes tight, and they can be supported in either direction from the main rope. The loop is typically attached to a climbing harness by carabiner. It can also be used to isolate a worn section of rope, where the knot is tied such that the worn section is used for the center of the loop.

Carrick bend

Carrick bend

A fully interwoven diagonally opposed Carrick bend

Use: The Carrick bend is used for joining two lines. It is particularly appropriate for very heavy rope or cable that is too large and stiff to easily be formed into other common bends. It will not jam even after carrying a significant load or being soaked with water. The Carrick bend's aesthetically pleasing interwoven and symmetrical shape has also made it popular for decorative purposes. In the interest of making the Carrick bend easier to untie, especially when tied in extremely large rope, the ends may be seized to prevent the knot from collapsing when load is applied. This practice also keeps the knot's profile flatter and can ease its passage over capstans or winches. The ends are traditionally seized to their standing part using a Round seizing. For expediency, a series of double constrictor knots, drawn very tight, may also be used. When seizing the Carrick bend, both ends must be secured to their standing parts or the bend will slip. WARNING: The Carrick bend is generally tied in a flat interwoven form shown above. Without additional measures it will capsize (collapse) under load into a secure and stable, although bulky, form. If the knot is allowed to capsize naturally under tension, considerable slippage of line through the knot can occur before tightening. The knot should be upset carefully into the capsized form and worked up tight before actual use.

Cat's paw

Cat's paw

Use: The Cat's paw is used for connecting a rope to an object. Attaching a rope to a hook (or to a post or rail where the load is perpendicular to the post) with more security than a simple girth hitch. Joining an eye to a ring. Strongly joining eyes in the ends of two lines, where there is access to the end of at least one line. How to tie: Method 1 Form a bight in the middle of the line, and pull it back over itself like a girth hitch. This forms two loops, turned in opposite directions. Give each loop one more full turn in the direction that will tend to tighten it (the wrong direction will undo the loop completely). Pass both loops over the hook, rail or post and pull tight, taking care to push the bight up snugly against the turns. Method 2 If working end of the line has an eye in it, and the standing end is accessible, the knot can be tied to a closed ring, another eye, or a rail with inaccessible ends, as follows. Pass the eye around the ring or rail, then pass the standing end through its own eye (this effectively forms a girth hitch). Then pass the standing end through the eye again, and pull up tight, taking care to push the bight up snugly against the turns. When using the cat's paw to join two eyes, this process may be repeated several times to give several turns - as many as five in a fine fishing monofilament. Then when tightened, instead of pulling the bight up against the turns, both eyes are pulled equally, to make neat coils of turns in both eyes, meeting halfway between them.

Clove hitch

Clove hitch

Use: This knot is the "general utility" hitch for when you need a quick, simple method of fastening a rope around a post, spar or stake. How to tie: Make a turn with the rope around the object and over itself. Take a second turn with the rope around the object. Pull the end up under the second turn so it is between the rope and the object. Tighten by pulling on both ends.

Constrictor knot

Constrictor Knot

Use: The Constrictor knot is one of the most effective binding knots. Simple and secure, it is a harsh knot which can be difficult or impossible to untie once tightened. It is made similarly to a clove hitch but with one end passed under the other, forming an overhand knot under a riding turn. It is a very effective knot for constructing a pilot's ladder, as it will not slip when tied around wooden rungs. How to tie: Make a turn around the object and bring the working end back over the standing part. Continue around behind the object. Pass the working end over the standing part and then under the riding turn and standing part, forming an overhand knot under a riding turn. Be sure the ends emerge between the two turns as shown. Pull firmly on the ends to tighten. WARNING: The Constrictor knot's severe bite, which makes it so effective, can damage or disfigure items it is tied around.

Crown knot

Crown Knot

Use: Used a component in a back splice and in the double crown knot. Can be used to temporarily prevent the ends of a laid rope from unraveling. How to tie: Make a constriction around the rope about 7.5 cm from the end. You can constrict it by tying a constrictor knot around the rope with a bit of twine, or you can tape it. Unravel the end of the rope all the way to the constriction. Bind the ends of the strands with tape to keep them from unraveling. Double one strand (strand A) over itself and lay it between the other two (strands B and C), leaving a loop in its center. Pull strand B over the end of strand A and lay it between strands A and C. Pass strand C through the loop made in strand A. Tighten all three strands carefully. See http://www.ropeworks.biz/archive/Acrown.html for an animation.

Double bow

Double bowline

How to tie: Make a loop with the running end crossing over the standing end. Make a larger loop that passes over the first loop, again with the running end passing over the standing end. Pass the running end through the first loop from the bottom. Wrap the running end behind the standing end, and back down through the first loop. Tighten

Double sheet bend

Double sheet bend

Use: The double sheet bend or double becket bend is a strong knot used to tie two ropes (usually of different thicknesses or rigidity) together. It is a doubled version of the sheet bend. How to tie: To tie the double sheet bend, start by making a bight in the larger line. Pass the working end of the smaller line up through the bight, around behind the bight, and beneath the loop in the smaller line (that's a sheet bend). Then once again, pass the working end along the same path, around behind the bight and beneath the loop in the smaller line. WARNING: As with the standard sheet bend, the two free ends should end up on the same side of the knot. If they do not, a left-handed double sheet bend results, which is much weaker.

Figure eight

Figure Eight

Use: This knot is ideal for keeping the end of a rope from running out of tackle or pulley. How to tie: Make underhand loop, bringing end around and over the standing part. Pass end under, then up through the loop. Draw up tight.

The fisherman's knot is a bend (a knot for joining two lines) with a symmetrical structure consisting of two overhand knots, each tied around the standing part of the other. Other names for the fisherman's knot include: angler's knot, English knot, halibut knot, waterman's knot.

Fisherman's bend

Fisherman's knot

Use: The Fisherman's knot is a specialized bend. It consists of two overhand knots wrapped around each other. It works well for joining thin, stiff, or slippery lines. It requires little dexterity to tie, so is often used in stubborn materials. When tightened, it becomes fairly compact, and the free ends can be cropped very close to the knot. These qualities make it very useful for fishing line--it is less likely to jam a fishing rod than many other bends, and is easier to tie with cold, wet hands. How to tie: To tie the fisherman's knot, lay the two ends to be tied alongside each other and facing opposite ways. Tie an overhand knot on the first rope and pass the second rope through the loop formed. Tighten the overhand knot, to prevent the line inside it from flopping around. Then tie another overhand knot on the second rope with the first rope passing through it.

Fisherman's loop

Fisherman's loop

Use: The fisherman's loop makes a non-slip loop at the end of a rope. How to tie: This knot is the same as a fisherman's bend, except that instead of joining two ropes together, a single rope is doubled over and then joined to itself forming a loop. Another way to tie it is to make a slip knot and then use the running end to tie an overhand knot around the standing end.

Halter hitch

Halter hitch, Hitching tie

Use: The halter hitch, sometimes called a hitching tie is used to tie the lead rope, which is attached to a horse's halter (or to a boat), to a post or hitching rail. The benefit of the halter hitch is that it can be released by pulling on one end of the rope. Even if there is tension on the horse-side of the rope it can still be release with ease. How to tie: Pass the working end of the rope over the standing part. Pass the working end behind the loop. Create a bight in the working end of the rope. The bight is then passed in front of the main loop and into the second loop. Tighten the hitch by pulling on the standing end and the bight. The hitch can be finished by passing the working end through the bight.

Hunter's bend

Hunter's bend

Use: The Hunter's bend (aka Rigger's bend) is used to join two lines. It consists of interlocking overhand knots, and can jam under moderate strain. Hunter's bend is one of the most recent knots to be discovered. It appeared on the front page of The Times in 1978 and was credited to Dr. Edward Hunter. Dr. Hunter used it for years to tie broken shoelaces before discovering its originality through a friend in the 1970s. When it appeared on the front page, it led to much publicity for the knot and also to the foundation of the International Guild of Knot Tyers. However, the knot was presented in Knots for Mountaineering by Phil Smith ca. 1956.

Lariat or Bowstring knot

Lariat

Use: A lariat knot is the loop knot commonly used in a lasso. Its round shape, especially when tied in stiff rope, helps it slide freely along the rope it is tied around. How to tie: Place an overhand knot in the end of the rope. Tie a second overhand knot, pass the rope end through it, and tighten.

Lark's head

Lark's head

Use: The lark's head is a knot (specifically, a hitch). Also called a cow hitch, it comprises two half-hitches tied in opposing directions. The cow hitch is often used to connect loop-ended lanyards to handheld electronic equipment, since it can be tied without access to the ends of the fastening loop. How to tie: When both the standing parts of the rope are available, the cow hitch can be tied in the following manner: Form a bight and pass it through the ring from the underneath. Pull the head of the bight downwards, and reach through it, grabbing both standing parts of the rope. Pull both standing parts of the rope through the bight.

Man harness knot

Man harness knot

Use: The Man harness is a knot with a loop on the bight for non-critical purposes. This knot is used when multiple people are to pull a load. Typically one end of the rope is tied to a load, and one man harness knot per puller will be tied along its length. Each loop is then pulled by a different person. How to tie: Lay the rope flat Make a loop in the rope with the running end going beneath the standing part. Pull the running end down so that it crosses over the loop. Pull the bottom of the loop through the gap between the top of the loop and the running end. WARNING: The Man harness knot must have the loop loaded or it will slip and contract easily.

Miller's knot

Miller's knot

Use: A Miller's knot (also Sack knot or Bag knot) is a binding knot used to secure the opening of a sack or bag. Historically, large sacks often contained grains; thus the association of these knots with the miller's trade. Several knots are known interchangably by these three names. Several variations are shown here. This is another depiction of the knot shown above. This knot is also a useful hitch and is known by the name Ground-line hitch when used for that purpose. This variation is noted as having better binding characteristics than the others.

Packer's knot

Packer's knot

Use: The Packer's Knot is a binding knot usually used in smaller line. This knot is sometimes used in baling and in parcel tying. How to tie: Make a figure eight not near the standing end of the rope. Wrap the running end around the "parcel" and pass it through the top loop of the "eight" following the same path as standing end. Make a loop in the running end and pass the standing end through it. Tighten.

Pipe hitch

Pipe hitch

Use: The pipe hitch is used for hoisting tubular objects (such as pipes). How to tie: Make four or five turns around the pipe with the rope. Bring the running end back to the standing part. Tie two half-hitches around the standing part.

Prusik knot

Prusik knot

Use: A Prusik (aka Prussik or Prussic) is a friction hitch used in climbing, canyoneering, caving, rope rescue and by arborists to grab a rope (sometimes referred to as a rope-grab). The term Prusik is used both for the knot, for the loops of cord, and for the action (to prusik). A Prusik rope is a circular loop with a circumference of 20 to 100 cm depending on its intended use. Two Prusik ropes are tied to another rope which is anchored above. When the Prusik knot is under tension, it grabs the rope to which it is tied. When not under tension, it is easily moved. The climber places one foot into each loop, and shifts all of his or her weight to one of them, releasing the tension on the other. The rope without tension is then slid upwards on the vertical rope. The climber the shifts his or her weight to the other loop and slides the first one up. This is repeated until the rope has been ascended. Prusiks will work around two ropes, even two ropes of different diameters. Prusiks provide a high-strength and relatively fail-safe (i.e., they will slip before damaging the rope or breaking) attachment, and are used in some rope-rescue techniques. Prusiks are good to use in hauling systems where multiple rope-grabs may be needed, and where mechanical rope-grabs are not available. Although the Prusik Climb technique may be called old-school by some, the US Army still includes it in its annual Best Ranger competition. Rangers in the competition routinely make it up a 90 foot rope in under a minute. How to tie: The Prusik is tied by wrapping the prusik loop around the rope a number of times (depending on the materials, but usually 3-5 times), and then back through itself, forming a barrel around the rope, with a tail hanging out the middle. When the tail is weighted the turns tighten around the main rope and grab. When weight is removed the loop can be slid along the rope by placing a hand directly on the barrel and pushing. The trick is, if it grabs well, then it is hard to slide along the rope. Breaking the Prusik free from the rope after it has been weighted can be difficult, and is easiest done by pushing the bow, being the loop of cord which runs from the top wrap, over the knot to the bottom wrap, along the tail a little. This loosens the grip of the hitch and makes movement easier. Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Step 4 Locked while holding tension. Slides readily without tension.

Sheepshank

Sheepshank

Use: The sheepshank knot is used to shorten a length of rope. It comes undone easily unless it is under tension. WARNING: Keep this knot under tension or it will come untied.

Sheet bend

Sheetbend

Use: The sheet bend knot is excellent for joining two ropes together, especially if the two ropes are not the same size. When tied properly, it will not come undone, and it is easy to untie. It is very similar to the bowline. How to tie: Make a bight at the end of the larger rope (if they are not the same size). Run the end of the smaller rope through the bight, entering from the bottom. Wrap the end of small rope around the back of the large rope, crossing the short end of the large rope first. Tuck the end of the short rope under itself, on top of the bight.

Slip knot

Slip knot

Use: A slip knot is one that will tighten under load, and which can be easily untied by pulling on the running end. This knot is typically a component of more complicated knots, and is generally not used by itself. How to tie: A slip knot can be tied by starting an overhand knot, but instead of passing the running end through the loop, pass a bight through instead. WARNING: If tied as shown in the illustration, the running end (on the right) will pull through the loop if even the slightest load is applied to the standing end (on the left). If one reverses the standing end and running ends in the illustration, the knot is far more stable. As shown, the knot will hold a load on the running end, but not on the standing end.

Slipped half hitch

Slipped half-hitch

Use: A slipped half-hitch is a knot used to attach a line to a rod or bar. It does not provide great strength compared to some other knots, but it can be tied relatively quickly and released very easily. These characteristics mean that it is used on square-rigged ships for securing the gaskets that bind stowed sails to the yards. How to tie: Begin as for a clove hitch, but instead of passing the end of the line through the loop in the final step, pass a bight instead, leaving the end on the original side. Pulling on this end will release the hitch - if tied in a gasket, this will quickly release the sail. WARNING: Never use this knot in a critical situation. It comes untied at the slightest provocation.

Slipped sheet bend

Slipped sheet bend

Use: The slipped sheet bend is used in non-critical situations for temporarily joining two ropes. How to tie: Start the same as in tying a regular sheet bend, only pass a bight (light blue in the illustration) under the last rope (dark blue) instead of passing the running end under. WARNING: The slightest tug on the running end will untie this knot instantly - even if the knot is under load.

Square knot

It is used for the Basic Rescue. ( See basic rescue honor)

Square Knot

Use: Also known as a Reef knot, the Square Knot is easily learned and useful for many situations. It is most commonly used to tie two lines together at the ends. This knot is used at sea in reefing and furling sails. It is used in first aid to tie off a bandage or a sling because the knot lies flat. How to tie: Pass left end over and under right end. Curve what is now the left end toward the right and cross what is now the right end over and under the left. Draw up tight by pulling one end and line away from the other end and line. WARNING: Do not rely on this knot to hold weight in a life or death situation. It has been known to fail.

Stevedore's knot

Stevedore knot

Finished stevedore knot

Stevedore knot before tightening Use: The Stevedore knot is a stopper knot, often tied near the end of a rope. It is more bulky and less prone to jamming than the closely related figure-eight knot. This knot is excellent for anchoring a tarp. Pass the end of the rope through a tarp's grommet, tie a stevedore, and anchor the other end with a taut-line hitch. Its added bulk prevents it from pulling through the grommet. How to tie: The knot is formed by following the steps to make a figure-eight knot, but the working end makes an additional round turn around the standing part before the end passes back through the initial loop.

Strangle knot

Strangle knot

Use: The Strangle knot is a simple binding knot. Similar to the constrictor knot, it also features an overhand knot under a riding turn. The difference is that the ends emerge at the outside edges, rather than between the turns as for a constrictor. This knot is actually a rearranged double overhand knot and makes up each half of the double fisherman's knot. When tightened, it is very slip-resistant. It is ideal for constructing a pilot ladder (like a rope ladder, but with wooden rungs).

Surgeon's knot

Surgeon's knot

Use: The surgeon's knot is similar to a square knot, except that the first stage is doubled. This helps the knot stay tight while it is being tied.

Taut-line hitch

Taut-line hitch

Use: The Taut-Line Hitch is an adjustable loop knot for use on lines under tension. It is useful when the length of a line will need to be periodically adjusted in order to maintain tension. It is made by tying a Rolling hitch around the standing part after passing around an anchor object. Tension is maintained by sliding the hitch to adjust size of the loop, thus changing the effective length of the standing part without retying the knot. When under tension, however, the knot will grip the cord and will be difficult to cause to slip. It is typically used for securing tent lines in outdoor activities involving camping, by arborists when climbing trees, for creating adjustable moorings in tidal areas, and to secure loads on vehicles. A versatile knot, the Taut-line hitch was even used by astronauts during STS-82, the second Space Shuttle mission to repair the Hubble Space Telescope. How to tie: Pass the working end around the anchor object. Bring it back along side of the standing part and make a half-hitch around the standing part. Continue with another wrap inside the loop, effectively making a round turn around the standing part. Complete with a half-hitch outside the loop, made in the same direction as the first two wraps, as for a clove hitch. Dress by snugging the hitch firmly around the standing part. Load slowly and adjust as necessary.

Timber hitch

Timber hitch

Use: The timber hitch is a knot used to attach a single length of rope to a piece of wood. This knot is easily undone after use. How to tie: To make the knot, pass the rope completely around the wood. Pass the running end around the standing part, then through the loop that you have just formed. Make three turns around the loop then pull on the standing part to tighten. Take care that you double the rope back on itself before making the three turns, or it won't hold. Three are recommended for natural rope such as jute, whereas five turns are needed on synthetic rope like nylon. This knot is also known as the Bowyer's Knot as it is used to attach the lower end of the bowstring to the bottom limb on an English Longbow.

Two half hitches

Two half hitches

Use: This reliable knot is quickly tied and is the hitch most often used in mooring.

How to tie:

1. Pass end of rope around post or other object.
2. Wrap short end of rope under and over long part of rope, pushing the end down through the loop. This is a half hitch.
3. Repeat on long rope below first half hitch and draw up tight.